Tilt, Stob Coire nan Lochan

Second time lucky.  With another good forecast myself and Lena made the walk up to SCNL with the view of climbing Tilt VS 4c**.  With the sun blazing and more importantly no wind, we reached the lochans in the coire below the peak, geared up, made our way across the snow patch and started up.

Most of the climbing were in the first 2 pitches with pitches 3 and 4 still given 4c grade but they were short-lived and low in the grade.  I started up the first 4b pitch, making my way up corners and grooves with gear everywhere to the base of a deep chimney.  It was quite dirty with moss and lichen but there were holds where you needed them and I was glad I had max’s large cams, as the whole route was cam’tastic.  Over the couple of chock stones and to the belay which was in-situ, great, clip!

Lena then led up the next pitch which had a good 4c section going over a small overhang and gear everywhere, which she made short work of.  Pitch 3, mine again, was quite green but still given 4c, maybe for the committing move off a loose block on to a mossy ledge.  The belay at the top was very doubtful with a length of cord threaded behind a knotted sling wedged into a crack, might look good covered in snow!  Lena then made sort work of the 4 pitch up an easy angled chimney, about 4b I think, then a short scramble to the top, job done.  An amazing day.

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