Deep-cut Chimney

With another stunning day forecast myself and Craig headed back to Glen Coe and up to Stob Corie nam Beith to climb Deep-cut Chimney IV,4, 450m.  There was a party in front of us gearing up, but with it being a 4 star route that doesn’t come in very often we were willing to wait a bit.

The first 3 pitches were in the deep chimney with small steep ice falls spread throughout that just about warranted the tech 4 grade.  With a little waiting for the party in front we made our way up to the amphitheater where there is an option to bail out right, or head left up the original line that was put up in 1937.  There was enough ice around so we headed up left on a thin traverse and then on to easier broken ground.

With the angle easing we made our way over dry rock and good ice for another pitch with a few grade 3 steps, but the scope for variations on this pitch are huge.  With the time ticking on we needed to get some distance so we headed into Arch Gully and moved together up the 200m grade 1 ground sweating all the way.  By the top of the gully we were both really tired and not knowing exactly how far the top was we kept the pace up and headed up the final broken slopes to the summit at 4pm.

Keen to get down in the light we hot footed it round the corie and then bum slid about 200m to the corie floor on hard ice, picking up a bit more speed than we expected, and by 5.30pm we were back at the car.

A good day and a good old school classic route; some steep icy steps, snow plodding and a long grade 1 calf burning slope to finish.

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