I have been in north Wales since Tuesday getting some climbing done to kick start my season. Due to a dodgy forecast in the mountains myself and Lena stuck around Eric’s cafe opposite Craig Bwlech y Moch, which is in no bad position.
On the Tuesday we headed to Craig y Gesail on a cold and overcast day wondering what we were going to get done. We first headed up Princess a VS 4b which is a good climb if a little over grown with trees. We then headed onto The Chateau which was quite loose, green and bold so we ab’ed off after the first pitch. To salvage the day we headed up the VDiff of Bramble buttress moving together and placing runners between us. A sluggish start to the season for me, but a start.
On Wednesday we headed across the road and headed up Oberon and then Rienetta a VS 4C with a one move wonder second pitch traverse and then a really good steep corner pitch to finish. A really good route and the sun is now shining. After we scrambled up the first 2 pitches Christmas Curry, we then geared up and put climbing shoes on and headed round to Grotto, but after heading up 5 meters with no gear in sight and a blank slab above I decided to down climb off a wobbly spike back to the belay. We then continued up the classic of Micah Eliminate where Lena lead the bold, delicate traverse pitch to top out.
Yesterday we headed along the road to Craig Pant Ifan and climbed Poor Man’s Peuterey a really good climb that gets you in some bold positions. After, we headed up Pear tree Variation an eliminate up the side of the previous route but none the less a good route with an ab off. To end the day we headed back to Craig Bwlech y Moch and went up Oakover a really good corner first pitch and then a bold slab traverse and arete climb for the second.
Today myself and Lena headed to Milestone Buttress in the Ogwen valley. We arrived and wondered up the 5 minutes to the crag and realized that even though it was sunny the crag was in the shade and it was freezing. We headed up Pulpit route a Vdiff but a good outing, trying to keep warm. A good climb but very polished with an awkward chimney pitch. Unfortunately the weather then closed in and the rain started so we headed to the cafe at Capel Curig.
Unfortunately no pictures as my camera decided to break Sunday evening.