Today myself, Ken, Scot and Hannah all walked into the north face with the view of climbing The Curtain (IV,5) next to number 5 gully. However on the walk in it was evident that the overnight rain and rise in temperatures had changed conditions slightly on the lower buttresses. We got to just below the CIC hut and cut off towards number 5 gully round the base of the CIC cascades. We geared up at a large boulder where we left our bags about 100m below the route and made our way up.
When we got to the ice on the route things didn’t look as good as they could have been. With the ice in the majority of places only about 3 inches thick and not very well bonded to the rock face. This coupled with dripping icicles around the route all added to a no go. There was one section up the middle of the first pitch that was deep enough to climb but protection would have been scarce to say the least. So we turned round and headed down to come back another day.