Buachaille Etive Mor

Today Claire and myself headed south through Glen Coe to ‘the Buachaille’.  Our goal was the north ridge.  A ridge that I have done once on a wet and windy day in summer and once in winter half in the dark.  So it was a pleasant change to have blue sky and sun with views in every direction.  I was also glad of the early start as about an hour after leaving the car park it was spilling over.

We headed along the path going south east towards the north face and cut up towards the twin boulders that marks the ridge after central gully.  With good grade 2 scrambling from the off it was a good warm up before the main climbing began.  We geared up at the base of the chimneys that mark the start of the ‘mod’ climbing section.  With bone dry rock, the sun beaming down and with views behind of the Ben it couldn’t get much better.

I had forgotten how good the climbing on this section is with good hand holds and small foot holds up the chimneys, not to mention a few bridging moves.  After a few pitches we were at the top of the chimney section.  I took the rope up and we short roped our way to the summit in 3 hours.  A good quality route completed in good time.  Claire did well keeping her nerve over the trickier sections and enjoyed the scrambling.  All that was left was a decent via Coire na Tulaich still in the sun!

The day was topped off with a BBQ in the evening sun down Glen Nevis.

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