Clogwyn Du’r Arddu (Cloggy)

Me at the top of the 1st pitch

On Thursday as a last day of climbing Max and myself headed up Snowdon towards Cloggy.  After a week of hot dry weather we were sure the crag was going to be in condition.  After an hour and 20 minute walk we reached the base and a few of the routes that we had picked out were a bit damp from seepage lines.  The decision was made to head towards Longland’s climb, the first put up on the crag in 1927.  After scrambling up to the base I headed up the first short pitch to get established on the route properly, it was more a challenge to keep shoes dry than anything else.  Max then headed up the 2nd with some interesting bridging moves and slab climbing for 4a, it was a bit of a surprise.  Max then set a belay where some tat was left, which proved to be very uncomfortable with his sport harness on a hanging belay.  The next pitch was supposed to be 12 meters and 4b.  I head up and after 30m I set a belay.  It wasn’t 4b but quite gripping with a few loose blocks, and a bit overgrown with lichen.  We worked out that I had done the 2nd and 3rd pitches in one (which is what I had planned).  Max then led the final 4c pitch.  With a few hard steep pulls it was all over and on to easier ground.

We headed down and watched a party on Great Wall E4 6a which they took in their stride.  On 2 of the belays we had used chock stones and with Max reading the history of the climb we had just completed we found out that these were brought up from the bottom by the first accentionists and placed in position as belays.  The climb had also taken them 2 days with a bivi on the last belay, quite impressive.

After the walk down we headed to Bus stop quarry for some evening slate.  I led my first slate climb Equinox vs 4c and Max headed up Solstice HVS 5a, which is a very nice climb but has some very loose blocks on it which are quite un-nerving.

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