Two more sunny days

Me on the first pitch of Heather Wall

Yesterday (Tuesday) we headed back into Llanberis Pass to Carreg Wasted.  The first route of the day was Shadow wall.  With a bit of a scrappy first pitch the meat of the climb was in the second.  I led off on a trending rightward traverse.  With jugs all the way the position was excellent.  With a sneaky move round on to the arête it was a swift few moves to the ab point.

Route two was Overhanging Chimney which was Max’s MIA assessment route.  I headed up the chimney and with gear where you want it and with the climbing steep it is a very good pitch.  With a tricky move near the top the top of the chimney is reached with a spacious belay.  Max then headed up glad to complete the route with less pressure this time round.

With the temperature rising we drew the last of our energy to head up Lion.  With a bit of a dirty first pitch the second was the meat of the climbing.  With a delicate traverse rightward to under an overlap the climbing was good.  You are then faced with a chimney to cross under a big roof.  Max had set a belay here which made it very snug.  With some bridging and back and footing I made it up to swap gear.

We then headed back to the slate quarries as Max wanted to try Holy, Holy, Holy an E2 5c.  This is a very good climb with hard laybacking the technique of choice.  The only problem is that to put any gear in you have to lean the way you don’t want to, which makes for an interesting lead.

Today we headed up to Idwall Slabs in the Ogwen valley.  Today was to be a bit of a rest day so we headed up to Heather wall on the side of the slabs.  This is a good route that keeps you away from the crowds on the slabs.  It would be good if there was some more traffic on it to give it a bit of a clean.  After some lunch Max wanted to try Original route VS 5a.  After a bit of thruching he made it up to the belay.  I didn’t fare much better, using a body cam and an arm cam to get up the thin chimney.  A fun pitch.  It was then an easy short pitch to the top.

To finish off I headed up Diagonal route VS 5a which has all its hard moves at the start and is more of a boulder problem that then gets you onto easier ground.  A good route but short for what you get.

Another sunny day is forecast tomorrow before driving back up on Friday.

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