Pandora’s Buttress

With a grey sky Lena and myself headed down the glen.  With the drizzle hitting the car we drove out again for a cup of tea to see if it cleared up.  It did.  With the risk of rain still in the air we headed for Pandora’s buttress and the Flying Dutchman with the direct finish.  Lena did well to lead a wet, greasy and moss covered first pitch, which made the traverse section tricky.  I then took over and went up the short but pleasant direct finish, which takes a trending crack line to the right.

We descended and headed over to Pandora.  Again Lena made light work of the fist pitch through heather and moss to get established.  With the plan do climb the direct version of the second pitch I headed up.  With some very wet foot holds and a key wet hand hold on the crux, the climb was ‘interesting’, it would be a great pitch in the dry.  We then headed over to Phantom slab for our 3rd pitch after sorting out a belay after down climbing and traversing in to the best situation.  This pitch (although it is described as a separate climb) is very good, and one of the best of its grade in Glen Nevis.  With a slab rising to the skyline and having to move on small Quartz crystals made the climb enjoyable.

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